Readjusting to normal life

It was always going to be with a heavy heart that I had to return home from my travels. Put simply it's been difficult readjusting to normal life; a life which only a few weeks ago seemed a million miles away. But I don't see that as a bad thing. I mean after all, if I'd returned the same person as I'd left what would have been the point going in the first place?

So on my return to drowning England, and despite my fast fading tan, I'm determined to continue making the best of every day and to remember some important lessons I learnt whilst swanning about in the sun (yes, I did actually learn something other than the fact I like hot weather!)

I have learnt to slow down. Take it easy.

Before I left I was always rushing around at a hundred miles an hour, constantly on the move, constantly doing something. If I wasn't at work, I was socialising, if I wasn't socialising I was at the gym. What was the rush? Why was I running about like a headless chicken? Who knows.

I love being active and adventurous, but I now appreciate a bit of good old fashioned down time too. And if I have to wait, be it for a friend, in traffic, in life, what does it matter. A few minutes, hours, even weeks won't make a difference. Plus, there's always plenty of interesting things around us, which we so often overlook. I now see waiting as an opportunity to look and see what I would have otherwise missed.

I have learnt to let go of where I once was.

There are things, people, situations from my past that before I left I was struggling to let go of, that in all honesty if I could I would have turned back the clock and gone back to. Travelling to so many stunning places, so many that I fell in love with and grew attached to, and then having to leave them, taught me the power of letting go. I realised if I wanted to go to the next amazing destination I had to leave the one I was currently at behind - and what a great life lesson. We have to let go of where we were in order to get where we want to be. I can't turn back time and be back travelling again, and I accept that now. Whilst I'll always remember it with incredible fondness, I'm leaving my amazing adventure behind, so that I can move on to my next one - can't wait to find out what it'll be.

I have learnt it doesn't matter if you don't always have a plan.

Now, don't get me wrong I love a good plan. I plan at work, I make plans with my friends, I even planned a lot of our road trip, and I've always had a life plan. If you read my early blog posts you'll know last year I was starting to embrace the certainty of uncertainty and learning to live without a plan, but I think travelling has provided clarity on why. If you're always working to one end goal, what happens when you get there? A lot of people think when they get to the end of their plan, they'll be happy. But I've seen too many people (and marriages) finding once they get where they wanted to be, that something else is missing. Not always planning for the future, living in the now and embracing the new, for me is the only way to be truly happy.

Yes, it's good to have something to work towards (and I'm sure in time, I'll have some shape of life plan again) but don't defer happiness in favour of it. We are constantly changing, being shaped by the world around us, so I'm not too worried that I haven't decided who I want to be or where I want to go yet. Whilst travelling some of my favourite moments were those in which we embraced our freedom and decided to visit a place we hadn't already planned to visit, or to stay a bit longer at the places we wanted to stay, so why wouldn't that apply in the rest of my life? I'm going to become the person I end up becoming, and in the mean time I'm going to focus on enjoying today.

The great Sea World debate

This blog is a bit different from my usual blogs, but then today has been an unusual, albeit interesting today. Why? Firstly, because I went to the park that is at the centre of a great deal of controversy at the moment, Sea World. And secondly, because when I got back I watched the documentary which is causing much of the controversy, Blackfish.

Now I'd be lying if I said we hadn't had a great time at SeaWorld. Observing the fish and other sea creatures, admiring the superb shows, and laughing ourselves silly on the rides, is my idea of a fun day out. 

But, Blackfish has tainted it somewhat, providing a shocking but needed alternative perspective, and making me question the park even more than I already did. Is it cruel to keep Orcas in captivity? Should the trainers be allowed in the water with them? Should I have contributed to the multi-million dollar profit SeaWorld makes off the back of these beautiful mammals? In all honesty, I've not completely made up my mind.

What I am certain of is that it is right to question parks like SeaWorld and their practices to make sure they are handling the animals and other wildlife in their care as best as they possibly can. Yesterday I saw this sign at San Diego zoo, which says it all really:

There are certainly practices shown in Blackfish which I could never condone. Never should animals be captured from the wild, separated from their broken-hearted mothers for no other reason than pure entertainment's sake. We should think very carefully before trying to force animals in to newly created 'families', because neither bullying nor isolation like Tilikum experienced is fair. Never should whales be punished or blamed for their natural behaviour. And we should always show respect for the power and intelligence of these magnificent sea creatures.

What I'm struggling to get my head round, however, is why these 'killer' whales should be treated any differently from other animals in the park or indeed in any zoo. Is it their size that makes a difference? Their intelligence? Or the fact they are expected to perform like circus animals? Or if there is no difference, where do you draw the line? Should zoos be abolished altogether?

I believe zoos, aquariums and parks like SeaWorld help scientists and the general public to learn about animals and have an overall positive impact on the species in captivity. I also like to think that unless there is an exceptional circumstance only animals that would have otherwise died in the wild are taken; that all those they can are released back in to the environment Mother Nature intended for them; and that all those kept in captivity are well looked after. 

I'm not naive, I know the perfect picture I have painted above is in reality unfeasible to enforce. After all, no wildlife park is going to make enough money to stay afloat, let alone make a profit (which as a practice is arguably morally opposable) if the enclosures are so large no one can see any of the animals. But I do think these are practices we should encourage whenever we can. I found myself, both today at SeaWorld and yesterday at San Diego zoo, questioning whether the animals had enough space. A viewpoint reinforced by the ex-SeaWorld trainers featured in the documentary who have publicly spoken out suggesting the killer whales should be given a larger sea pen. 

I don't have the answers to this problem, nor do I pretend to have enough knowledge to offer a in-depth viewpoint, but there you have it. My day has not evoked just the elation and interest I expected or the enjoyment and chilled nature of other days on this trip; instead it's sparked an internal and group moral debate. A debate I'm sure will continue amongst us and wider society for many years to come.

California Dreamin'

I'm content and in awe. It's the middle of November, winter is fast approaching and I've spent the past week happily travelling from one beach to the next along the West coast of the USA.

November is glorious in California. Not only has it been averaging about 22 degrees (with some days as warm as 28), there's such a great vibe. It's out of peak season so a lot quieter than it would have otherwise been, and everyone's gearing up for the holiday season, with Thanksgiving less than two weeks away.

There are some beautiful places down Highway 1 - and if you're in to your cars I'd recommend the route just for the drive alone. Never have I more enjoyed driving than down the quiet winding coastal road. Spectacular.

There are some real treasures along the way too. From the arcades of Santa Cruz, to the Farmers Market of Monterey (if you go, make sure you time it for the market on a Tuesday as the food stalls really are something else), beautiful, beautiful Carmel, to the shops and restaurants of San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara, the lovely beaches of Long Beach, Huntington, Newport and Laguna - you're spoilt for choice.

A trip to Hearst Castle is also worthwhile. An imposing structure sat on the hill, overlooking San Simeon. The original owner, media mogul, William Hearst took inspiration from Europe, particularly Spain, and included literally everything he wanted, from Roman-styled pools (indoor and outdoor), to Greek pottery, historic painted ceilings, tapestries. You name it, he had it. The castle was even surrounded by a private zoo! The estate is really well preserved, although the animals are no longer there, and it is fascinating to wander round. When I eventually have enough money to build my own castle I'll definitely be taking inspiration from this place.

I left my heart in Napa Valley

Okay, so that's not quite how the song goes. I was going to focus this blog on the original tune and how of all the cities we've visited so far San Francisco has been my favourite:

I left my heart in San Francisco

High on a hill it calls to me

To be where little cable cars climb halfway to the stars

The morning fog may chill the air, I don't care

But now I've been to Napa Valley, and I realise that's where I've left my heart. Rolling hills, beautiful wineries, autumn leaves, tasty food and of course fantastic wine. There's not much not to love about the place. 

The Domaine Carneros winery, owned by the Tattinger family - yes, I did come all this way to discover my favourite wine in the region is made by the French - is particularly good. A striking house and setting, fascinating tour and lovely patio serving Chardonnay, Pinot noir, and as you'd expect some good bubbly; as well as French-inspired plates of cheese, charcuterie and smoked salmon.

Our weekend wine tasting in Napa, however, doesn't detract from San Francisco but indeed adds to it's appeal. Just 50 minutes drive away, I can't think of a more ideal set up than working in the city and spending my weekends in Napa.

San Francisco is a lovely sunny city - I'm told we timed our visit perfectly to miss the mist usually associated with the place - bursting with shops, restaurants and bars, big hills, spectacular views over the bay, and picturesque parks. It has the quirkiness of New Orleans, especially in neighbourhoods such as the Haight, combined with big city feel of Dallas, and the trendiness of Miami.

It's unique features make it a must visit city. I'd be shocked to discover there's anywhere else in the world where historic cable cars climb up giant hills, sea lions sit in the harbour, barking and splashing the day away, with impressive bridges, such a large coastline, and as grand a park as Golden Gate park.

Over the past week I've discovered why so many people rave about Northern California, and I can't blame them. In fact, I suspect I'll be joining them!

The Lone Star State

It's been a great week in the Lone Star state. We've experienced real big cities, some crazy driving and a lot of people wondering how on earth we ended up in Texas.

Our introduction to the state was in Dallas. We spent a considerable amount of time learning about JFK, which is a big deal, as you can imagine with the 50th anniversary of his assassination fast approaching; seeing the memorial, the spot where it happened and that window.

We also admired the view from the reunion tower, spent a Saturday night checking out the locals bars and ate great food from two very different cuisines: tex mex and ethiopian (although Chloe might contest that statement after discovering the Texans like to put beef in everything, even refried beans). The only two downsides were our failed attempt to go bowling - rather hilariously making that failed attempt number four - clearly bowling being a significant part of American popular culture is an outdated myth; and the weather, dropping to around 20 degrees the first day we were there, we even wore jeans - quite a shock to the system!

South Texas, in contrast, has not only gifted us with glorious weather, but even more beautiful cities and more intriguing historical sites - although no real cowboys, which I'm a little disappointed about.

Austin, buzzing with students and with a plethora of bars and live music venues, plus plenty of shops and nice cafes is the sort of place I'd want to live. And it's impressive state capital building, tower blocks and beautiful university structures provide a lovely setting.

We loved Houston; the Flying Saucer bar in downtown with it's multitude of beers was a great place to meet local businessmen and women. And we were fascinated by the NASA space station.

But for me it is San Antonio, home of the Alamo, which has been the stand out city. The battle cry, 'Remember the Alamo' is one we've all heard, made famous across the world by John Wayne and Davy Crockett, even if our knowledge of the Alamo itself is somewhat vague. Not only is San Antonio's architecture and history stunning (even if the Alamo is a lot smaller than I'd envisaged), but it's river walk, more reminiscent of the likes of Venice than something you would expect to find in Texas, is out of this world. Lined with lovely restaurants, which light up the river at night, the walk has a mini theatre (which we were all excited to realise featured in Miss Congeniality), an abundance of pretty bridges, and great boat tours. 

Plus it leads to La Villita, a cute little village where the Mexican Commander surrendered to the Texans during the Texas War for independence in 1835; today overflowing with arts and crafts, and the best icecream I've had in a long time.

Now we're at Houston airport waiting to board our plane to Cancun, and I can't help but feel a bit sad; not only are we leaving Texas, the first leg of our trip is over. But as we head to Mexico, I'm sure much more adventure awaits.

Always desire to learn something useful

We have spent a lot of time on the road the past few weeks, travelling from the southern most part of the US, in Key West, Florida, through Georgia, round Alabama, in to Mississippi and Louisana, then round the largest state of them all, Texas.

As we've been exploring these different landscapes and meeting a diverse range of people, we've done a lot of learning - about the US, about different views and cultures, about the nature we've encountered, about all the different places we've visited and people we've met.

It's good to take a break and nurture the soul, which is exactly what this trip has been doing, but it's also important not to let your mind stagnate. So in addition to learning from our travels, we've been educating ourselves in the car. From learning Spanish, to the state nicknames and capitals, to UK Prime Ministers, general knowledge, London boroughs, animal facts, European capitals; Chloe and Danielle have even been imparting their knowledge on Harry Potter. We've tried to keep it diverse and we've tried to keep it beneficial.

As famous Greek playwright, Sophocles said:

New Orleans, an eclectic mix of fun

Before we arrived in New Orleans Leah, the landlady of the bar we were drinking at in Mobile, Alabama elucidated what it was like:

'It's dirty, it's grimy, it's trashy, y'all gonna love it!'

If only we knew just how much. Sure parts of it were grimy and the tourist traps like the famous Bourbon Street were trashy, but it was also quirky, authentic, unique.

Its eclectic mix of jazz bars, tattoo parlours, Mediterranean food, office blocks, steamboats, flea markets and historical sights make it unlike anywhere I've ever been before. Never have I been to a stranger, more random place than New Orleans.

The different districts and attractions almost belong completely separately. You would not expect to find coffee and beignets of Cafe du Monde alongside the strip clubs and cheesy music of Bourbon Street; nor the tattoo parlours and boutiques of Uptown to be part of the same city as the business district or voodoo shops, for which New Orleans is renowned. Yet oddly this amalgamation of anomalies comes together superbly.

It starts to make a lot more sense once you understand the history of the city. The impact of African Americans and native Indian Americans is obvious and once intermingled with the European influence, which dominates the large French quarter of the city in particular, you suddenly begin to see why it's such an unusual place.

It is this originality that makes New Orleans a must visit city. Whether you're looking for sophisticated jazz, kooky shops, great food or crazy nightlife, it really has it all.

And whilst the devastation caused by hurricane Katrina is still evident in a few places, particularly on the drive in, the city seems to have recovered now (contrary to reports I'd heard before we arrived). New Orleans is a large, bustling city - I was surprised by the scale of it - with a melange of people moving at all hours of the day at the very heart of it.

If you are looking to visit I would recommend the dinner jazz cruise on steamboat Natchez; a great combination of history and culture, with incredibly friendly staff and the opportunity to say you have sailed up the Mississippi river.

You should also check out the bars along Frenchmen Street and Decatur Street - Bourbon Street was lots of fun, but perhaps somewhere you should only visit once for the novelty. 

The eateries and boutiques along Magazine Street are definitely worth a visit. As are the tattoo parlours (especially Idle Hands) at that end of town if that's something that interests you.

And if the opportunity arises, you should try and see an NFL game at the dome. We were in town for the Saints hosting the Miami dolphins - and whilst we weren't at the game, the atmosphere was fantastic. I'm sure it helped that the Saints crushed the dolphins 38-17, but it seems New Orleans is a football-mad city.

Whatever you're looking for in New Orleans, in the words of our friend Leah, 'y'all gonna love it!'

Sittin' on the dock of the bay

When we decided to come and explore the US I envisaged beautiful beaches, dramatic landscapes and exciting cities - and thus far we've had plenty of that. But I also imagined quiet little towns, country folk and in the words of Otis Reading, sittin' on the dock of a bay, wasting time.

Well now we're in Fairhope, Alabama and we have found just that. A sleepy country town by the sea, we've found some lovely people - never have I felt more like a celebrity than on the beach today, where the young local girls for whom British tourists are definitely not the norm, spent most of the day fascinated by our accents, quizzing us on England and One Direction - but we also found the most stunning dock.

And so today, I have been living by Otis  Reading's words:

Looks like nothing's going to change

Everything still remains the same

I can't do what ten people tell me to do

So I guess I'll just remain the same

Sittin' here resting my bones

And this loneliness won't leave me alone

It's two thousand miles I roamed

Just to make this dock my home

Now I'm just gonna sit at the dock of the bay

Watching the tide roll away

Sittin' on the dock of the bay

Wasting time

I can certainly think of worse places to be 'wasting time'.

A journey of surprises

We're still very much in the early stages of our trip, but already there have been several things and places that have really surprised me on our journey. And I don't just mean the prices of the drinks in the clubs in Miami or that iHop is open and serves it's full menu 24 hours a day (this is us there at 2am)

I have learnt things about myself, my friends and the US I never knew or expected - and I'm certain I'll learn a lot more over the next 4 and a half months.

I've been surprised by how much I felt at home in Miami after 5 days; how much I enjoy going out diving on my own; how non-slimy dolphins are; how quickly we all began pining for a washing machine and clean clothes; how brainwashed some Americans are (the views of our friend Thomas in Naples shocked us all); how quickly we could learn the state nicknames and capitals (we thought it would take weeks rather than a day); how our state knowledge is now better than a lot of Americans; how fun it is being out on the road - ok, I did kind of anticipate that, but the sense of freedom and contentment you get is absolutely something else.

But the real surprise for me so far has been Tampa. A big city, known for little more than business, Busch Gardens and being the home town of Channing Tatum and his seedy 'Magic Mike' strip club. Not the sort of place you'd want to visit, right? Wrong. The cute streets in the historic district of Ybor City, the lively strip of bars, the drink prices ($1 a drink - could you ask for more?), the friendly people. I loved Tampa. Admittedly, with a long day at Busch Gardens followed by a drive to Orlando the next day, making the most of the city may not have been the wisest decision we've ever made (for Chloe at least) but I'm certainly glad that we did.

Heaven on Earth

After an eventful start on Friday (with a forgotten credit card mishap) we picked up our car, or KiKi as we affectionately call her, and got out on the road. That road brought us to a place I think is actually heaven on earth, The Florida Keys.

Stopping off in Islamorada to eat the best food we've had so far, as we sat looking out on the palm trees, sunshine and sea, I knew it was going to be a good few days.

It took literally minutes to spot our first bunch of dolphins, then we arrived at our glorious hotel in Key West. Located right near the sea and a short walk from the marina and all the bars, with a lovely swimming pool, jacuzzi and breakfast included, we are living the life.

From biker bars to aligators, crazy dancing, meeting special agents, late night swims, moped rides, beer by the pool, key lime coolers, key lime pie, amazing views over the sea, giant iguanas, tropical storms, we've had it all. 

And we left our mark in Key West attaching our dollars to the ceiling of the dollar bar.

We even found the most scrumptious veggie cafe (much to Soph's delight) in Key West, with Sezchuan noodles, falafel pittas and Moroccan vegetable and lentil soup. Good job we weren't there longer or Soph may literally have spent her whole budget in that place!

And importantly for me I got to do some diving in Key Largo. Diving of many firsts, first time I've been out on a boat without someone I already know, first time I've dived in the rain and first time I've seen eagle rays, lobster and a whole load of jelly fish.

I really couldn't ask for more. And we've not even swum with dolphins yet - that's what we're up to tomorrow morning before we head on to the Everglades, where I plan to cement my nickname of Ray Mears.

Miami, the city that keeps the roof blazing

'This the type of town I could spend a few days in, Miami the city that keeps the roof blazing.'

We've only been away for 5 days so far and we've not even ventured further than Miami yet, but there's already much to tell.

There's been tattoos, drunken evenings, giant cocktails, lost Kindles, exciting bus rides, lots of sunshine and beach time, some thunder and rain, nail salons, morning runs, American diners, buggy rides, Kardashian stalking, bike rides, roller blading and lots of new Italian/Israeli/Swiss/Moroccan/Spanish friends.

We've set up some routines, like recording quote of the day, winning one so far is Danielle's drunken explanation of how she doesn't need an invisibility cloak or immortality because she has alcohol!

We've started to relax and enjoy ourselves, we're really loving life; although I'm sure the fact this is our lives for months and months hasn't really sunk in yet.

Now we're off to pick up our hire car and are heading South to Key West... let the road trip begin!!