The great Sea World debate

This blog is a bit different from my usual blogs, but then today has been an unusual, albeit interesting today. Why? Firstly, because I went to the park that is at the centre of a great deal of controversy at the moment, Sea World. And secondly, because when I got back I watched the documentary which is causing much of the controversy, Blackfish.

Now I'd be lying if I said we hadn't had a great time at SeaWorld. Observing the fish and other sea creatures, admiring the superb shows, and laughing ourselves silly on the rides, is my idea of a fun day out. 

But, Blackfish has tainted it somewhat, providing a shocking but needed alternative perspective, and making me question the park even more than I already did. Is it cruel to keep Orcas in captivity? Should the trainers be allowed in the water with them? Should I have contributed to the multi-million dollar profit SeaWorld makes off the back of these beautiful mammals? In all honesty, I've not completely made up my mind.

What I am certain of is that it is right to question parks like SeaWorld and their practices to make sure they are handling the animals and other wildlife in their care as best as they possibly can. Yesterday I saw this sign at San Diego zoo, which says it all really:

There are certainly practices shown in Blackfish which I could never condone. Never should animals be captured from the wild, separated from their broken-hearted mothers for no other reason than pure entertainment's sake. We should think very carefully before trying to force animals in to newly created 'families', because neither bullying nor isolation like Tilikum experienced is fair. Never should whales be punished or blamed for their natural behaviour. And we should always show respect for the power and intelligence of these magnificent sea creatures.

What I'm struggling to get my head round, however, is why these 'killer' whales should be treated any differently from other animals in the park or indeed in any zoo. Is it their size that makes a difference? Their intelligence? Or the fact they are expected to perform like circus animals? Or if there is no difference, where do you draw the line? Should zoos be abolished altogether?

I believe zoos, aquariums and parks like SeaWorld help scientists and the general public to learn about animals and have an overall positive impact on the species in captivity. I also like to think that unless there is an exceptional circumstance only animals that would have otherwise died in the wild are taken; that all those they can are released back in to the environment Mother Nature intended for them; and that all those kept in captivity are well looked after. 

I'm not naive, I know the perfect picture I have painted above is in reality unfeasible to enforce. After all, no wildlife park is going to make enough money to stay afloat, let alone make a profit (which as a practice is arguably morally opposable) if the enclosures are so large no one can see any of the animals. But I do think these are practices we should encourage whenever we can. I found myself, both today at SeaWorld and yesterday at San Diego zoo, questioning whether the animals had enough space. A viewpoint reinforced by the ex-SeaWorld trainers featured in the documentary who have publicly spoken out suggesting the killer whales should be given a larger sea pen. 

I don't have the answers to this problem, nor do I pretend to have enough knowledge to offer a in-depth viewpoint, but there you have it. My day has not evoked just the elation and interest I expected or the enjoyment and chilled nature of other days on this trip; instead it's sparked an internal and group moral debate. A debate I'm sure will continue amongst us and wider society for many years to come.

California Dreamin'

I'm content and in awe. It's the middle of November, winter is fast approaching and I've spent the past week happily travelling from one beach to the next along the West coast of the USA.

November is glorious in California. Not only has it been averaging about 22 degrees (with some days as warm as 28), there's such a great vibe. It's out of peak season so a lot quieter than it would have otherwise been, and everyone's gearing up for the holiday season, with Thanksgiving less than two weeks away.

There are some beautiful places down Highway 1 - and if you're in to your cars I'd recommend the route just for the drive alone. Never have I more enjoyed driving than down the quiet winding coastal road. Spectacular.

There are some real treasures along the way too. From the arcades of Santa Cruz, to the Farmers Market of Monterey (if you go, make sure you time it for the market on a Tuesday as the food stalls really are something else), beautiful, beautiful Carmel, to the shops and restaurants of San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara, the lovely beaches of Long Beach, Huntington, Newport and Laguna - you're spoilt for choice.

A trip to Hearst Castle is also worthwhile. An imposing structure sat on the hill, overlooking San Simeon. The original owner, media mogul, William Hearst took inspiration from Europe, particularly Spain, and included literally everything he wanted, from Roman-styled pools (indoor and outdoor), to Greek pottery, historic painted ceilings, tapestries. You name it, he had it. The castle was even surrounded by a private zoo! The estate is really well preserved, although the animals are no longer there, and it is fascinating to wander round. When I eventually have enough money to build my own castle I'll definitely be taking inspiration from this place.

I left my heart in Napa Valley

Okay, so that's not quite how the song goes. I was going to focus this blog on the original tune and how of all the cities we've visited so far San Francisco has been my favourite:

I left my heart in San Francisco

High on a hill it calls to me

To be where little cable cars climb halfway to the stars

The morning fog may chill the air, I don't care

But now I've been to Napa Valley, and I realise that's where I've left my heart. Rolling hills, beautiful wineries, autumn leaves, tasty food and of course fantastic wine. There's not much not to love about the place. 

The Domaine Carneros winery, owned by the Tattinger family - yes, I did come all this way to discover my favourite wine in the region is made by the French - is particularly good. A striking house and setting, fascinating tour and lovely patio serving Chardonnay, Pinot noir, and as you'd expect some good bubbly; as well as French-inspired plates of cheese, charcuterie and smoked salmon.

Our weekend wine tasting in Napa, however, doesn't detract from San Francisco but indeed adds to it's appeal. Just 50 minutes drive away, I can't think of a more ideal set up than working in the city and spending my weekends in Napa.

San Francisco is a lovely sunny city - I'm told we timed our visit perfectly to miss the mist usually associated with the place - bursting with shops, restaurants and bars, big hills, spectacular views over the bay, and picturesque parks. It has the quirkiness of New Orleans, especially in neighbourhoods such as the Haight, combined with big city feel of Dallas, and the trendiness of Miami.

It's unique features make it a must visit city. I'd be shocked to discover there's anywhere else in the world where historic cable cars climb up giant hills, sea lions sit in the harbour, barking and splashing the day away, with impressive bridges, such a large coastline, and as grand a park as Golden Gate park.

Over the past week I've discovered why so many people rave about Northern California, and I can't blame them. In fact, I suspect I'll be joining them!

Three national parks and a little place called Vegas

In the last ten days we've re-established ourselves in the US after Mexico, covered a lot of ground over three different states and explored some fascinating and contrasting places. From the big lights of bustling Vegas, brimming with gamblers and party-goers, to the serenity of the vast Grand Canyon, eerily silent Death Valley and the beautiful wilderness of Yosemite national park.

Everyone hears so much about Las Vegas, the city that never sleeps, and all it's craziness. Before we even got to the states I had a clear picture in my mind of what it would be like. But when we arrived, eventually (there was a slight issue involving strawberry margaritas at Houston airport that meant we had to get a plane later than planned) it was not at all what I expected. I can't really pinpoint exactly why; perhaps it's because the strip was so long - we never made it up to the Stratosphere at the other end. Or perhaps because the city does sleep, things close and people drift off to bed from about 1am, albeit later than a normal day in a normal city. I'm not sure, but it took some re-adjusting. For the first few days I wasn't sure what I made of it, but by the end of our eight days - which everyone was right, is more than enough time in Vegas - the place had captured my heart.

Sophie and I took a (needed) day out from Vegas to visit our eighth state and what has been described as 'the most stunning natural spectacle' and also 'a big hole in the ground' (Chloe), the Grand Canyon.

Our tour guide on the way said we can take as many pictures as we like and describe it to our friends and family, but it's just not possible to explain exactly what it's like. And he is absolutely right. As George Wharton James, author of 'The Grand Canyon: How to See it' said:

"Though only two hundred and seventeen miles long, [The Grand Canyon] expresses in that distance more than any one human mind yet has been able to comprehend or interpret to the world. Famous word masters have attempted it, great canvas and colour masters have tried it, but all alike have failed."

With that in mind I will not exhaust my vocabulary in a feeble attempt to explain the feelings and thoughts this natural wonder conjures up. Instead I will say just two things: 1) I could have sat there staring with fascination all day - it's stunning, everyone should go see it; and 2) If you visit at the end of October, as we did, bring some warm clothing. Somehow we lost perspective that you are at altitude when you are staring down in to the Canyon, so of course it's colder than at sea level.

After our eight days in Vegas were up - highlights of which included Marquee Mondays, seeing Shania Twain, Calvin Harris at Hakassan for Hallowe'en, and the central bar at our hotel, which became our regular hangout from 4am till 7am - we headed on our way to our ninth and final state, California. First stop, Death Valley.

Now it may not sound all that appealing, but the drive in our new car, or LD as we call him, was spectacular. Again, for fear of not doing the landscape justice, I'm going to rely on the words of another:

"Strange how a landscape so unwelcoming and intolerant of life can be so inexplicably and compellingly beautiful" - H Wormington 

We then moved from one remarkable national park to another, heading straight from Death Valley to our final stop before San Francisco, Yosemite. In addition to the change in temperature being quite something - after two hours driving the desert landscape transformed in to snowy mountain tops - our accommodation in Yosemite was quite different too. 

Not only did we have bear lockers to put all our food and toiletries in (we didn't actually get to see any bears, rather disappointingly), in stark contrast to our luxury casino hotel in Vegas, we opted for tents; originally unheated, but that was an idea we quickly re-thought.

An evening spent snuggled by the fire in the guest lodge, playing cards - for fun rather than money - actually turned out to be one of our favourite nights. And our interrupted sleep, as we piled on another layer of clothing on to keep warm, was made worthwhile by the breathtaking scenery and wildlife engulfing us. 

It looked picturesque in its beautiful Autumn setting, but I'd like to return to Yosemite in the summer months. Although the evident devastation from this summer's wildfires suggest it may not be the best time to go, revisiting when it's not so cold, when Yosemite falls is flowing at its best, and when I can really make the most of my favourite national park is definitely on my to-do list.

My mermaid alter-ego

When I came up from my first dive in Mexico, one of the American guys I was with turned to the other and said (about me) 'she's like a little mermaid'. This made my day. Not only because it meant I was up to standard - always a relief when with a group of very experienced scuba divers (one had nearly 1,000 dives under his belt) - but since I was five (when I first watched Disney's The Little Mermaid) I have aspired to be one.

You're almost certainly thinking how immature of a 25 year old, but short of growing a tail and gills I can't see how you can be any closer to being a mermaid than scuba diving. That's why I love it so much.

Under the sea is a whole different world, and it's like all the different sea creatures have their own personalities. In the words of Sebastian the crab, 'darling it's better, down where it's wetter, take it from me.' 

I've done some great diving since my travels began, seeing ship wrecks, eagle rays, stingrays, turtles, lobster, Lion fish, morays, big parrot fish, barracuda, and masses of huge jelly fish. I even found my own little Flounder in Key Largo, a little yellow fish that decided to follow me on my second dive.

And with the Great Barrier Reef in Oz and Koh Tao, Thailand still on the hit list, I'm positive there'll be plenty more to come.