Gold Coast to Cairns - A very merry Chrissy 2013

We decided to travel from Surfers' Paradise on the Gold Coast up to Cairns via an organised tour largely for convenience. Having all our travel, accommodation, and a large chunk of activities, even food arranged for us greatly appealed. After researching a fair few different tour operators we decided to go with Topdeck, and now as I'm sat in Cairns writing this I'm very glad we did. The past ten days have been exciting, interesting, fairly hectic, but a hell of a lot of fun!

It's easy to forget how big Australia is, and we spent a fair amount of time on our coach, 'Crazy Clarkie' but boy have we been to some spectacular places and done some amazing stuff. It's been a great way to spend Christmas, or 'Chrissy' as the Aussies say.

After an initial day and night out in Surfers' Paradise, where we got to show off our bowling skills and visit Justin Bieber's favourite haunt, Sin City, we travelled up to beautiful Noosa via Brisbane. An eventful day to say the least, as one of the tour passengers went missing, but it gave us opportunity to see what a lovely city Brisbane is and to bond with the group, which we didn't realise would already be formed when we joined, as the tour began for most in Sydney five days previously (that's something worth checking if you do ever book a Topdeck tour).

From Noosa we ventured on a 4x4 minibus (who knew they existed!?) for a day trip to Fraser Island. After seeing our first kangaroos on the way we embarked on a bumpy, but fun ride around the sand island, along the beach and through the rainforest, stopping at various points along the way. The highlight being our dip in Lake Mackenzie, which was free of waves, jellyfish and other creatures you have to be wary of in the sea; followed by a yummy lunch of barbecued Barramundi. Our journey home, driving next to the waves along rainbow beach with its multicoloured sands was also something I'll never forget.

Our next stop was quite different to the beaches we'd been enjoying as we headed inland to a 10,000 acre cattle ranch in the outback. Lassoing animals, cracking whips, riding mechanical bulls, line dancing and herding goats on horseback made for a brilliant 24 hours. Something we'd never have done had we not been on the tour, it was one of my favourite days.

Back to the beach, we hit Emu Park for an overnight toga-themed stay and probably the best room and party of the tour. Flip cup, beer pong and the wheel of shots created a messily hilarious evening. Although one most of us regretted at 7am the next morning when we had to get back on Clarkie to go to the Whitsundays.

Despite our hangovers and a broken down coach, we made it to Airlie beach and our sail boat, Boomerang, in plenty of time to see the stunning Whitsunday islands before sunset. 

Another scrummy dinner (it's amazing what these people an cook up on a sail boat) and stargazing before we all called it an early(ish) night. Glad we did too since almost everyone was up by about 6am. The early start though, meant we got extra time on the most exquisite beach I have ever seen, Whitehaven. If you only go to one beach in your life, this should be it. Because of the tides apparently it looks different every single day, which at least gives me a good excuse to go back. 

A little snorkelling trip (with a giant Trevelli) and another sail, I was really getting in to boating life when it was time to head to dry land. Cue Long Island - still part of the Whitsundays - where we would wake up on Christmas morning.

Now 'Chrissy' is nothing like Christmas at home, especially when you're sat on a tropical island surrounded by palm trees, exotic birds and wallabies. But that didn't mean we weren't going to enjoy it! We went to town on Christmas Eve. Having spent the previous evening working out and the morning swimming and doing Aqua Zumba, it descended rapidly during our afternoon cocktail class which ended in drunken karaoke and eventually dancing fully clothed in the pool till 2am Christmas morning.

Probably not the best idea since we had another early start to get up to Cairns in time for Christmas dinner, but hey, it was Chrissy! It was a bit of a shame to spend so much of the day travelling, but we had some nice stop offs, like in Townsville, overlooking the beautiful Magnetic Island, and the evening meal at Rattle and Hum in Cairns with our secret Santa pressies was very nice.

In all honesty though, Boxing Day was a more enjoyable day for most of us, I think. Not only was it Sophie's birthday which meant an evening of takeaway (naturally we had Soph's favourite - Indian), as well as cheese and wine on our hotel balcony; we spent the day out at sea with Passions of Paradise, snorkelling, scuba diving and viewing fish from the glass bottom boat. I'd recommend Passions of Paradise for scuba diving - for certified divers and beginners alike. The staff were great, super friendly and very helpful; and whilst the dives weren't deep - it seems they generally aren't at the Great Barrier Reef - they were a lot of fun with an abundance of wildlife. We saw multiple turtles, blue spotted stingrays, sea slugs, and all the usual suspects: parrot fish, bat fish, trigger fish, tusk fish, surgeonfish, coral cod, the list goes on.

Our final day of the tour was spent doing individual activities, so whilst Sophie and Chloe headed on a day trip to Daintree and the rainforest, I travelled south with another girl from our group, Sarah, to Mission Beach to sky dive. The most spectacular way to finish the tour, jumping out a plane at 14,000 ft with the rainforest one side of you and the Great Barrier Reef the other. It really was something else. The only way I can describe it really is like the best roller coaster of my life. The wind and pressure on your body as you free fall is pretty extreme, but then as the parachute is released and you soar down to land on the beach, it's a ridiculous amount of fun. And quite surprisingly, I didn't get too scared - my jump master was so nice and chilled, I had 100% confidence in him getting us back to the ground safely. Plus, I was busy concentrating on my photographer - I shelled out for the dedicated photos, and I'm glad I did, they're brilliant! This is just a photo of one of the photos:

As you can tell, ten days after leaving the Gold Coast, we've crammed in a lot of activities, seen loads of Australia, and done things we wouldn't have otherwise done. That's why I definitely think it's worth doing a Topdeck tour. Our leader, Tara, made everything so simple to organise so we could just take our brains out and enjoy. What a way to spend the festive season. Merry Chrissy everyone!

From Sydney to Surfers' Paradise

After reluctantly leaving the US and a brief stop in beautiful Fiji, last weekend I made it to the land down under - and immediately fell in love with the place.

Our first two nights we could not have been based in a more perfect location, in between Randwick Junction and Coogee beach, just a short bus ride from central Sydney. Spoilt by the combination of lively bars, tasty restaurants, cliff-top walks and unspoilt beaches; I immediately wanted to live there. In fact, the wineries of Hunter Valley are probably all that could have lured me away from the place. Lucky for me, that's exactly where we were headed.

After exploring central Sydney and indulging in some home comforts we'd been deprived off in the US, like Topshop and Nando's, we jumped on the Greyhound bus to Newcastle (For fellow travellers I would recommend the Greyhound bus. It has been very easy with a simple online booking system and pretty comfy coaches.) 

Newcastle is nice enough, a little run down and the accommodation a bit more expensive than we'd have liked, but with a good beach and more importantly an ideal distance from the wine region, it's a decent stop off on the East Coast. At least that is, if you book on to a tour. If however like us you leave it until the last minute and want to do a tour on a random Tuesday it becomes a little more difficult, although certainly a lot more exciting.

We ventured by bus, train and then taxi to Wyndham winery, and whilst it was quite an effort and pretty costly, it was definitely worth it. A picturesque winery, with a great history (where the first Shiraz was made), lovely staff and most essentially delicious wine. After tasting a mere 16 different types, we left feeling very satisfied - and a little tipsy.

Our next stop en route to the Gold Coast was Coffs Harbour, home of the Big Banana. A fairly sleepy town it's not for the big clubber- although the pub at the hostel at the end of our street, Park Beach Road, got quite lively - but it has a nice beach, friendly people and we had a lovely relaxing few days.

We then moved on to Byron Bay ready for the weekend. Almost all backpackers make a stop here and we'd heard in advance it's not what it once was, but when we got there we were pleasantly surprised. Quirky shops, live music bars, bustling but not too busy beaches, some great eye candy and the best frozen yoghurt place (which has caused me to develop an addiction to the stuff) made for a great few days.

Now we're in Surfers Paradise, waiting to start our Topdeck tour up to Cairns. Our Australian adventure has well and truly begun.

Measuring in Friends

Having just spent Thanksgiving with my family in Los Angeles, and as the first leg of our trip nears the end, it got me thinking about all the people we have met whilst we've been in North America. People who have made our journey so memorable.

Whilst we have been in the States, we've reconnected with old childhood friends, caught up with family, been joined by mates from home, and met a whole host of new people. From my second cousin who I'd never met before, to our tour guide in Mexico, the Frat boys in Florida, to our West Brom friends made in Vegas; these are the people that have made our trip so amazing. 

As Tim Cahill said:

I have been lucky enough to share my experiences over the past three months with three fabulous people, and I'm quite devastated our little family is being torn apart tomorrow as Danielle departs for New York. But I realise how fortunate we are to have met so many great people, from all over the world along the way. Here's to making more friends Down Under!

The great Sea World debate

This blog is a bit different from my usual blogs, but then today has been an unusual, albeit interesting today. Why? Firstly, because I went to the park that is at the centre of a great deal of controversy at the moment, Sea World. And secondly, because when I got back I watched the documentary which is causing much of the controversy, Blackfish.

Now I'd be lying if I said we hadn't had a great time at SeaWorld. Observing the fish and other sea creatures, admiring the superb shows, and laughing ourselves silly on the rides, is my idea of a fun day out. 

But, Blackfish has tainted it somewhat, providing a shocking but needed alternative perspective, and making me question the park even more than I already did. Is it cruel to keep Orcas in captivity? Should the trainers be allowed in the water with them? Should I have contributed to the multi-million dollar profit SeaWorld makes off the back of these beautiful mammals? In all honesty, I've not completely made up my mind.

What I am certain of is that it is right to question parks like SeaWorld and their practices to make sure they are handling the animals and other wildlife in their care as best as they possibly can. Yesterday I saw this sign at San Diego zoo, which says it all really:

There are certainly practices shown in Blackfish which I could never condone. Never should animals be captured from the wild, separated from their broken-hearted mothers for no other reason than pure entertainment's sake. We should think very carefully before trying to force animals in to newly created 'families', because neither bullying nor isolation like Tilikum experienced is fair. Never should whales be punished or blamed for their natural behaviour. And we should always show respect for the power and intelligence of these magnificent sea creatures.

What I'm struggling to get my head round, however, is why these 'killer' whales should be treated any differently from other animals in the park or indeed in any zoo. Is it their size that makes a difference? Their intelligence? Or the fact they are expected to perform like circus animals? Or if there is no difference, where do you draw the line? Should zoos be abolished altogether?

I believe zoos, aquariums and parks like SeaWorld help scientists and the general public to learn about animals and have an overall positive impact on the species in captivity. I also like to think that unless there is an exceptional circumstance only animals that would have otherwise died in the wild are taken; that all those they can are released back in to the environment Mother Nature intended for them; and that all those kept in captivity are well looked after. 

I'm not naive, I know the perfect picture I have painted above is in reality unfeasible to enforce. After all, no wildlife park is going to make enough money to stay afloat, let alone make a profit (which as a practice is arguably morally opposable) if the enclosures are so large no one can see any of the animals. But I do think these are practices we should encourage whenever we can. I found myself, both today at SeaWorld and yesterday at San Diego zoo, questioning whether the animals had enough space. A viewpoint reinforced by the ex-SeaWorld trainers featured in the documentary who have publicly spoken out suggesting the killer whales should be given a larger sea pen. 

I don't have the answers to this problem, nor do I pretend to have enough knowledge to offer a in-depth viewpoint, but there you have it. My day has not evoked just the elation and interest I expected or the enjoyment and chilled nature of other days on this trip; instead it's sparked an internal and group moral debate. A debate I'm sure will continue amongst us and wider society for many years to come.

California Dreamin'

I'm content and in awe. It's the middle of November, winter is fast approaching and I've spent the past week happily travelling from one beach to the next along the West coast of the USA.

November is glorious in California. Not only has it been averaging about 22 degrees (with some days as warm as 28), there's such a great vibe. It's out of peak season so a lot quieter than it would have otherwise been, and everyone's gearing up for the holiday season, with Thanksgiving less than two weeks away.

There are some beautiful places down Highway 1 - and if you're in to your cars I'd recommend the route just for the drive alone. Never have I more enjoyed driving than down the quiet winding coastal road. Spectacular.

There are some real treasures along the way too. From the arcades of Santa Cruz, to the Farmers Market of Monterey (if you go, make sure you time it for the market on a Tuesday as the food stalls really are something else), beautiful, beautiful Carmel, to the shops and restaurants of San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara, the lovely beaches of Long Beach, Huntington, Newport and Laguna - you're spoilt for choice.

A trip to Hearst Castle is also worthwhile. An imposing structure sat on the hill, overlooking San Simeon. The original owner, media mogul, William Hearst took inspiration from Europe, particularly Spain, and included literally everything he wanted, from Roman-styled pools (indoor and outdoor), to Greek pottery, historic painted ceilings, tapestries. You name it, he had it. The castle was even surrounded by a private zoo! The estate is really well preserved, although the animals are no longer there, and it is fascinating to wander round. When I eventually have enough money to build my own castle I'll definitely be taking inspiration from this place.

I left my heart in Napa Valley

Okay, so that's not quite how the song goes. I was going to focus this blog on the original tune and how of all the cities we've visited so far San Francisco has been my favourite:

I left my heart in San Francisco

High on a hill it calls to me

To be where little cable cars climb halfway to the stars

The morning fog may chill the air, I don't care

But now I've been to Napa Valley, and I realise that's where I've left my heart. Rolling hills, beautiful wineries, autumn leaves, tasty food and of course fantastic wine. There's not much not to love about the place. 

The Domaine Carneros winery, owned by the Tattinger family - yes, I did come all this way to discover my favourite wine in the region is made by the French - is particularly good. A striking house and setting, fascinating tour and lovely patio serving Chardonnay, Pinot noir, and as you'd expect some good bubbly; as well as French-inspired plates of cheese, charcuterie and smoked salmon.

Our weekend wine tasting in Napa, however, doesn't detract from San Francisco but indeed adds to it's appeal. Just 50 minutes drive away, I can't think of a more ideal set up than working in the city and spending my weekends in Napa.

San Francisco is a lovely sunny city - I'm told we timed our visit perfectly to miss the mist usually associated with the place - bursting with shops, restaurants and bars, big hills, spectacular views over the bay, and picturesque parks. It has the quirkiness of New Orleans, especially in neighbourhoods such as the Haight, combined with big city feel of Dallas, and the trendiness of Miami.

It's unique features make it a must visit city. I'd be shocked to discover there's anywhere else in the world where historic cable cars climb up giant hills, sea lions sit in the harbour, barking and splashing the day away, with impressive bridges, such a large coastline, and as grand a park as Golden Gate park.

Over the past week I've discovered why so many people rave about Northern California, and I can't blame them. In fact, I suspect I'll be joining them!

Three national parks and a little place called Vegas

In the last ten days we've re-established ourselves in the US after Mexico, covered a lot of ground over three different states and explored some fascinating and contrasting places. From the big lights of bustling Vegas, brimming with gamblers and party-goers, to the serenity of the vast Grand Canyon, eerily silent Death Valley and the beautiful wilderness of Yosemite national park.

Everyone hears so much about Las Vegas, the city that never sleeps, and all it's craziness. Before we even got to the states I had a clear picture in my mind of what it would be like. But when we arrived, eventually (there was a slight issue involving strawberry margaritas at Houston airport that meant we had to get a plane later than planned) it was not at all what I expected. I can't really pinpoint exactly why; perhaps it's because the strip was so long - we never made it up to the Stratosphere at the other end. Or perhaps because the city does sleep, things close and people drift off to bed from about 1am, albeit later than a normal day in a normal city. I'm not sure, but it took some re-adjusting. For the first few days I wasn't sure what I made of it, but by the end of our eight days - which everyone was right, is more than enough time in Vegas - the place had captured my heart.

Sophie and I took a (needed) day out from Vegas to visit our eighth state and what has been described as 'the most stunning natural spectacle' and also 'a big hole in the ground' (Chloe), the Grand Canyon.

Our tour guide on the way said we can take as many pictures as we like and describe it to our friends and family, but it's just not possible to explain exactly what it's like. And he is absolutely right. As George Wharton James, author of 'The Grand Canyon: How to See it' said:

"Though only two hundred and seventeen miles long, [The Grand Canyon] expresses in that distance more than any one human mind yet has been able to comprehend or interpret to the world. Famous word masters have attempted it, great canvas and colour masters have tried it, but all alike have failed."

With that in mind I will not exhaust my vocabulary in a feeble attempt to explain the feelings and thoughts this natural wonder conjures up. Instead I will say just two things: 1) I could have sat there staring with fascination all day - it's stunning, everyone should go see it; and 2) If you visit at the end of October, as we did, bring some warm clothing. Somehow we lost perspective that you are at altitude when you are staring down in to the Canyon, so of course it's colder than at sea level.

After our eight days in Vegas were up - highlights of which included Marquee Mondays, seeing Shania Twain, Calvin Harris at Hakassan for Hallowe'en, and the central bar at our hotel, which became our regular hangout from 4am till 7am - we headed on our way to our ninth and final state, California. First stop, Death Valley.

Now it may not sound all that appealing, but the drive in our new car, or LD as we call him, was spectacular. Again, for fear of not doing the landscape justice, I'm going to rely on the words of another:

"Strange how a landscape so unwelcoming and intolerant of life can be so inexplicably and compellingly beautiful" - H Wormington 

We then moved from one remarkable national park to another, heading straight from Death Valley to our final stop before San Francisco, Yosemite. In addition to the change in temperature being quite something - after two hours driving the desert landscape transformed in to snowy mountain tops - our accommodation in Yosemite was quite different too. 

Not only did we have bear lockers to put all our food and toiletries in (we didn't actually get to see any bears, rather disappointingly), in stark contrast to our luxury casino hotel in Vegas, we opted for tents; originally unheated, but that was an idea we quickly re-thought.

An evening spent snuggled by the fire in the guest lodge, playing cards - for fun rather than money - actually turned out to be one of our favourite nights. And our interrupted sleep, as we piled on another layer of clothing on to keep warm, was made worthwhile by the breathtaking scenery and wildlife engulfing us. 

It looked picturesque in its beautiful Autumn setting, but I'd like to return to Yosemite in the summer months. Although the evident devastation from this summer's wildfires suggest it may not be the best time to go, revisiting when it's not so cold, when Yosemite falls is flowing at its best, and when I can really make the most of my favourite national park is definitely on my to-do list.

My mermaid alter-ego

When I came up from my first dive in Mexico, one of the American guys I was with turned to the other and said (about me) 'she's like a little mermaid'. This made my day. Not only because it meant I was up to standard - always a relief when with a group of very experienced scuba divers (one had nearly 1,000 dives under his belt) - but since I was five (when I first watched Disney's The Little Mermaid) I have aspired to be one.

You're almost certainly thinking how immature of a 25 year old, but short of growing a tail and gills I can't see how you can be any closer to being a mermaid than scuba diving. That's why I love it so much.

Under the sea is a whole different world, and it's like all the different sea creatures have their own personalities. In the words of Sebastian the crab, 'darling it's better, down where it's wetter, take it from me.' 

I've done some great diving since my travels began, seeing ship wrecks, eagle rays, stingrays, turtles, lobster, Lion fish, morays, big parrot fish, barracuda, and masses of huge jelly fish. I even found my own little Flounder in Key Largo, a little yellow fish that decided to follow me on my second dive.

And with the Great Barrier Reef in Oz and Koh Tao, Thailand still on the hit list, I'm positive there'll be plenty more to come.

Ten of the best days of my life

We have just returned 'home' (to the US) from our Mexican adventure and I'm feeling a little despondent. Not because I'm not looking forward to a crazy week in Vegas, nor because as we came through customs we realised we could have stayed in the country for an extra six weeks (although that was slightly heartbreaking), but because on reflection Mexico is definitely one of my favourite countries. And now I'm not there anymore.

Cancun is a great beach resort, we were spoiled with an amazing beach at our near empty hotel, and I did some great diving (ship wreck and all), but for me it was our ten day tour of the country that made it. In fact, I'd go as far as to say they were ten of the best days of my life.

I've never been on an organised tour before, but I will certainly be doing more in the future (actually, I've just booked one for Thailand in January). This tour, the Yucatan Panorama was with G Adventures - I may have no comparison but I would recommend them without hesitation. Focusing on Mayan ruins, it took us round the Yucatan peninsula and allowed us to see the beauty of real Mexico.

After an initial meeting and dinner with the lovely people we were to spend ten days with, we set off at 6am from Cancun to our first stop, Chichen Itza. The early start was made worthwhile as we beat the crowds and intense heat to freely view the fascinating structures. Led by our fantastic tour guide, who not only imparted some interesting historical facts about Mayan culture - I was particularly intrigued by their sports arena which I couldn't help but compare to Quidditch - but also encouraged us to challenge them, which the history geek in me greatly appreciated.

The day ended in the town of Merida. A far cry from the tourist-heavy Cancun, Merida was full of Mexican culture, from the markets, to our stunning family-run hotel, traditional Yucutan restaurants, and street festivities.

From Merida we took a trip out to see the Haciendas (big houses renowned for their henequen production) and cenotes, water pools formed in the limestone over millions of years and like nothing I've ever seen before. The first one we went to was stunning and lots of fun - being first to hurl myself in to the water from 15ft earned me the reputation of most adventurous on the tour. The second cenote, located in a cave, gave us the opportunity to swim around with bats flying above our heads - not something I ever expected to be able to say.

From Merida we headed, via a diverted bus due to protests occurring across the region, to the jungle and wilderness of Palenque. Probably my favourite place on the trip, Palenque was amazing. The scenery superb, albeit not what I envisaged when I thought of jungle; the jungle huts unlike any accomodation I've ever stayed in; and the ruins even more spectacular than those of Chichen Itza. Being able not only to climb them, but discover unexcavated ruins among the trees and bushes made them even more intriguing.

All that's before I've even mentioned the waterfalls. We stopped at one to cool off after our walk in the jungle, but the highlight was our day spent at some massive waterfalls located about 40 minutes from Palenque. We bathed in the pools, climbed down the waterfall, launched ourselves in to the water, swam in to hidden caves, and it was all topped off with a superb picnic, with the best homemade guacamole.

The next stop on our trip was again very different from the others. Following an overnight bus journey, with a few hairy moments like our journey to the back of the bus to use the loos and the military search of the bus, we arrived at what I can only describe as paradise, Sian Ka'an.

A nature reserve with white sand and turquoise sea on one side, and a blue lagoon with luscious greenery on the other. Whilst some of the group ventured to the nearby cenotes and ruins at Tulum, after our jungle adventure we were relieved to have a couple of days to relax by the sea. And when I say relax by the sea, I mean literally. Our cabins couldn't have been any closer to the beach without being in the sea.

It was by no means a perfect stay. The communal shower rooms, hole in the ground toilets, lack of shop and scarcity of food in the restaurant wasn't everyone's cup of tea (Chloe in particular was relieved to return to Cancun after two days in Sian Ka'an), but the special moments in my eyes more than made up for it. Not only did we watch sunrise over the sea from our balcony both mornings we were there and sunset over the lagoon from the rooftop, one evening we got to release a nest of baby turtles in to the sea. As if that wasn't magical enough, there was a 'moonrise' as we set them on their way. It was enough to bring a tear to your eye (Sophie) and a moment I'm sure we'll all remember forever.

The final stop of our tour was Isla Meurejes, an island not far from back where we started in Cancun. Now if you'd have asked me before we got there what would have been the ideal finish to the trip, I would have said more beautiful beaches, rooftop pools, nice food and tequila! And that's exactly what we got. A fabulous last day on the beach, followed by beers on the rooftop of our hotel and then our final supper and final piss up, concluded with drunken stargazing on the roof. Hopefully that explains why I would count those ten days in Mexico as ten of the best of my life.